Other Than Cheese

Let it never be suggested that the people of Skaneateles lack intellectual curiosity. Just pulling an example out of the air, I cite the query of Mrs. G.E.C. of Skaneateles who, in 1899, wrote to The Boston Cooking-School Magazine and said, “Kindly tell me the proper use of individual ramequin dishes. May they be used for other articles than cheese? Give two or three recipes for appropriate dishes to be served in them.”

Came the reply: “Probably the first use of the little round or oval dishes called ramequins was in the serving of various cheese dishes, but they are now quite as often used for soufflés of meat, fish, etc., or for puddings. They may be used in place of the paper cases so often in evidence at large entertainments.”

Do you get the feeling that the Boston Cooking-School frowned on “paper cases”? I do. And then, as Mrs. G.E.C. requested, three recipes followed, for Chicken a la Béchamel, Oyster Soufflé, and Salpicon of Sweetbreads, Tongue and Mushrooms.

Next question, please.

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